Coil Shock TTX22M by Ohlins for Specialized Bikes Enduro. Rear suspension has come a long way in such a short time. An improved rear shock will assist you to conquer the surfaces much simpler in order to descend with full confidence. The Ohlins TTX22M Coil Shock is designed specifically for enduro and gravity cycles. Back end suspension has come a long way in this particular short period of time. An enhanced rear shock will help you overcome the ground easier so that you can go down with confidence. The Ohlins TTX22M Metric Coil Jolt is specifically designed for enduro.
Coil Shock by Ohlins, TTX22M, TTX22
Making the adjustment
Broke levers con be moved too, but doing so will ruin your handlebar tape and Grab-Ons if you’re using them. Don’t make this adjustment until you’ve tried the brakes for at least a couple of weeks in the position in which they were installed. The odds ore you’ll get used lo ii. With traditional mountain-bike handlebars, you really don’t hove much choice about broke positions, though you con rotate the levers if you wont. With drop handlebars, or multiposition upright bars, there are a lot of places to put the brakes.
But think before you get too wild about ii. Make sure you con reach them easily from the down position, since that’s the most stable for hard broking. In addition, you wont to be able to rest your hands on the broke hoods as you ride. For beginners, this feels truly weird, but with practice, it’s a comfortable variation with the nice side effect of changing the pressure points in your hands. You con even reach the broke levers from there for lazy, gentle broking.
Squeeze tightly on the brakes and peer into the gap that opens up at the top of the brake lever. On most brakes, you’ll see a large screw. Loosen it, slide or rotate the levers as desired, then retighten the screw. In the process, you’ll almost certainly hove to remove handlebar tape, Grab-Ons, or both. They’re in the way, and the brake cables run underneath and need lo be moved along with the levers.
This is largely a matter of personal choice. For racing, the issue is one of aerodynamics; for touring it’s one of lower-back comfort and getting the weight off your hands. An old rule of thumb for road bikes is to start with the lop of your handlebars on inch lower than the top of the saddle. I like to keep the handlebars higher, nearly even with the top of the saddle, sacrificing a little in wind resistance in exchange for comfort and an easier view down the road without craning my neck.
Always signal, to drivers and to other cyclists. The signals ore standard; you were probably !ought them in grade school. For a left turn extend your left arm in that direction, straight from the shoulder. For right turns the traditional signal is lo use your left arm, bent 90 degrees upward at the elbow. This rule was developed for cars, however, where all hand signals must necessarily be given with the left arm. For cyclists it’s starling to become acceptable to signal a right turn with the right arm, in the mirror image of the left turn signal. To signal a stop, extend the left arm downward, slightly out from your side.
It’s best lo hold the palm open rather than pointing with one finger, so it doesn’t look like you’re merely pointing lo something on the ground. Some cyclists make the gesture more emphatic by waving backward with the palm. When turning, lean into the turn and raise the pedal on the inward side (left for o left turn, right for a right turn) if there’s any risk ii might drag. With practice, this becomes habitual, nor only on city streets, but also on steep, winding downgrades. Get into the habit of using borh brakes to stop.