SRAM Force 1 Type 3.0 Rear Derailleur, SRAM Force Chainrings, SRAM Brake, Front Derailleur, Crank, Crankset. Many more less common bottom bracket types are still out there, but, by and large, they’ve not been used in the past 20 years. The bottom bracket type will usually be listed in the owner’s manual of your bike, or the information can easily be attained by a couple of minutes of surfing on the Internet. And, like everything else on your bicycle, if it doesn’t seem to fit, don’t force it! You may be trying to insert a square peg into a round hole.

SRAM Force Rear Derailleur, Chainrings, Brake

SRAM Force 1 Hydraulic Front Disc Brake

Sram Force 1
hydraulic front disc

SRAM Force 1 Type 3.0 Rear Derailleur, Gray

Sram Force 1
type 3.0 rear

SRAM  Force 22 Chainrings 110Bcd

Sram Force 22
chainrings 110bcd outer

Installing Cartridge and External Bottom Brackets. The first piece of information that you need to know before installing the bottom bracket is which type is needed for your frame. Bottom brackets are measured by their width, thread pitch, and the direction of the drive and nondrive threads. The two major standards are the English bottom bracket (68 mm width, 137 x 24 tpi thread pitch, and left-hand drive-side thread orientation) and the Italian bottom bracket (70 mm width, 36 x 24 tpi thread pitch, and right-hand drive and nondrive-side thread orientation). Of the two, the English standard is by far the more popular, but many Italian- and Belgian-made bicycles, such as Pinarello and Eddy Merckx, still use the Italian standard.

SRAM Force 22 Chainrings 130Bcd,  Force 
 Black, 130Bcd, install SRAM Derailleur

Sram Force 22
chainrings 130bcd black

SRAM Force 22 Shift Brake Levers Right, SRAM Derailleur

Sram Force 22
shift brake levers

SRAM Force 22 Yaw 2X11 Front 11 Speed

Sram Force 22
yaw 2×11 front

SRAM Force 1 Type 3.0 Derailleur, SRAM Chainrings

Clean Bottom Bracket and Shell. Use a clean, lint-free rag and wipe clean the threads of the bottom bracket shell and the threads of the bottom bracket. Any dirt or particles trapped between the shell and the bottom bracket can damage the threads, prevent the bottom bracket from being inserted straight, or cause a loud creaking while pedaling. If it is difficult to get the threads clean, a mild degreaser such as Simple Green can be used, but be careful not to get degreaser on the bearings.

Force AXS DUB Crank Arm Assembly, Carbon

Sram Force Axs
dub crank arm

Force AXS Mechanical Brake Caliper

Sram Force Axs
mechanical brake caliper

SRAM Force eTap AXS Wide  Force 
 Crankset, Derailleur Force install SRAM Brake

Sram Etap
axs wide crankset

Sram Force Etap, 22 Yaw 2X11 Front Derailleur

Sram power axs dub crank arm assembly. The winning crank arms upgrading your cranks is a wonderful way to both brighten the ride and improve your pedaling efficiency. with carbon cranks, you’ll have a stiffer foundation which equals far more energy being moved to your back tire. The sram force axs dub crank arm assemblage has a 8-bolt program that is compatible with power and non-energy axs spiders and built-in chainrings. it has carbon fibers hands by using a organic carbon complete and can be found in multiple lengths from 165mm to 177. 5mm

Apply Grease to Threads. Apply a liberal amount of thick bicycle grease to the threads inside the bottom bracket shell and to the threads on the bottom bracket. It’s impossible to overgrease the bottom bracket, so don’t be stingy. Note: On bikes that are regularly exposed to wet and muddy riding conditions, I use a layer of Teflon plumbing tape on the bottom bracket to better seal the threads from contamination.

SRAM Eagle Boost Chainring

Installing External Bottom Brackets and BB30 Cranks

Shimano and SRAM (as well as FSA, Rotor, and most other crank manufacturers) cranks and bottom brackets, while not compatible with each other, are installed in the same manner. The spindle is permanently attached directly to the drive-side crank and the left crank is attached to the spindle, either by a pinch bolt or a traditional crank bolt. Some means of preloading the bearing is used, whether it is a threaded bolt or a wave washer or just by the compression of the crank bolt.

1. Install the Drive-Side Crank Apply a light layer of grease to the spindle, and slide it into the drive side of the bottom bracket. A bearing shield should be between the crank and the drive-side bearing. You may need to tap the crank into the bottom bracket with a mallet because it’s a very tight fit. Fully insert the crank until it is flush with the bearing shield surface.

2. Install Spacers or Wave Washer If the crank uses plastic spacers or a wave washer (such as BB30 cranks), slide them onto the spindle on the nondrive-side arm. When the left crank is attached, the wave washer should be somewhat compressed but not completely flat. If the wave washer is either flat or not compressed at all, remove the crank and either install or remove the plastic washers as needed.

3 Install Left Crank (Pinch Bolt)
4 Install Left Crank (Crank Bolt)

For pinch bolt cranks, loosen the pinch bolts, and completely remove the crank bolt. The left crank will slide off the spindle (you may need to tap out with a mallet). Then the right crank and spindle will slide out of the bottom bracket (again, you may need to tap with a mallet).

Cranks that use a traditional crank bolt will have a one-key removal cap, so simply back out the crank bolt until the left crank comes off. The right crank will slide out of the bottom bracket (you may need to tap out with a mallet).

Shifter, Chainring, Brake, Derailleur