SRAM Rival Brake Lever, Black Single Left. Braking system lever whether you’re building up one particular velocity or changing a drivetrain into a 1x system. Installing a Brake Lever. Whether you’re using an integrated brake and shifter lever combination or you have a brake lever only setup, the installation is the same. There is a metal clamp band that wraps around the handlebar and is tightened with a bolt from the front of the brake lever. Peel back the gum hood and find the clamp bolt on the brake lever. It may be to one side (like older Shimano levers), on the top (SRAM, Campagnolo, or newer Shimano), or directly behind the brake cable anchor point.
SRAM Rival 22 Brake Lever
SRAM Rival 22, AXS, eTap
Slide Lever Onto Handlebar Slide the clamp band onto the handlebar and up to your riding position. Tighten the band enough to keep the lever from slipping, but keep it loose enough so that you can find your perfect position. Note: A good way to measure and record your brake-lever position is to use a tape measure and measure from the very bottom of the lever body to the end of the handlebar. If you’re measuring from a similar-shaped handlebar, this will give you a very good idea of where you should put your levers.
Install the second lever in the same manner as the first. You can use a tape measure (measuring from the base of the lever body to the end of the handlebar) to re-create the position of the first, or you can eyeball it. The human eye is very adept at measuring distance. I usually line them up by sight with great results.
All of the major manufacturers have standardized their brake attachment systems so that they’re completely interchangeable. The brake has a single pivot bolt that runs through either the fork or the frame and is affixed with a specific sunken nut on the opposite side. Different width forks and rear brake mountings will require different length sunken nuts; most brakes come with several sizes, and many frames and forks come with specifically made sunken nuts. The front-brake caliper will have a long brake bolt, while the rear will have a very short one—it’s obvious which is which if you see them together.
Installing and Adjusting Brake Pads, Lever
Brake pads come in two major varieties, but each style functions identically. Standard brake pads have the actual braking pad permanently attached to the mounting hardware, while cartridge pads have replaceable pads independent from the mounting hardware. Cartridge brake pads allow you to change the pads without readjusting the mounting hardware.
Brake pads come in many different materials that are ideally suited for different applications. The standard brake pads use rubber and are best for aluminum rims. Carbon rims require either cork or specially designed rubber pads that work better with the hard carbon braking services.
Check Pad Adjustment After tightening both squeeze the caliper with your hand and check that the pads are adjusted correctly. A pad that is too high will rub the tire’s casing and cause a blowout. A pad that is too low can damage the rim or even slip under the rim after it has worn a bit, causing the brake to lock up.
Thread preparation is critical in bottom brackets. Use either grease or anti-seize for cups. Fixed cups (right-side) may also use mild threadlockers rather than lubrication. The common bearing size for square-spindle adjustable bottom brackets is ¼ inch. Procedure for bottom bracket installation:
a. Prepare threads using grease or anti-seize compound. Right side (drive side) cup may use a threadlocker as an option.
b. If removed, install fixed cup (right side). Even if fixed cup was not removed, check for cup tightness. For ISO/ English threading, turn counter-clockwise. Secure to a minimum of 360 inch-pounds.
c. Heavily grease bearing cages. Press grease into cage and between bearings.
d. Refer to notes from disassembly and place bearing retainer on fixed cup side (right side) of spindle. Place the open side of cage against the cone-shape of the spindle. Install spindle through shell and into fixed cup.
e. Install any dust sleeve.
f. Heavily grease second bearing cage and install into adjustable cup (left side). Place the open side of the cage towards cone-shape of the spindle.
g. Thread adjustable cup (left side) into place.
h. Install but do not tighten lockring onto adjustable cup.
Bottom Bracket Adjustment
Rotating bearings should be adjusted to be as loose a possible, but without play or knocking. To ensure you are making adjustments in small increments, use a piece of tape as a reference. Use about 2 inches of masking tape and make pen marks on one edge every inch (3 mm). Stick the tape ⅛ on the left side of the bottom bracket shell so the marks face outward. These will be reference marks when adjusting the bearings and represent the small increments used when turning the adjustable cup.
Use a sticker for reference marks when making small adjustments to the bearing cup If bottom bracket bearing surfaces are worn out, it will not be possible to have a smooth adjustment with no play. Worn bottom bracket parts will need to be replaced. The adjustment procedure below assumes the fixed cup (right side) is fully secure. If the bottom bracket was not disassembled, it is still important to test that it is secure. Remove cranks and loosen left side cup by turning counterclockwise ½ turn.
Hold spanner firmly to right side cup and check its security by tightening counter-clockwise. If cup seems tight, trust that it is tight. Procedure for bottom bracket bearing adjustment:
a. Reinstall right crank only and tighten fully. Arm will be used as a lever to check for play in adjustment.
b. Gently tighten adjustable cup (left side) clockwise. Turn it just to the point you can feel it bump into the ball bearings