SRAM X01 Speed Shifter, SRAM XX1 Carbon, Rear Derailleur, Inner Cage, Pulley Kit X01, 11 SPEED. The various components on your bike may be easily exchanged if some thing comes about. Be sure that you use legitimate SRAM elements with your elements. Installing Shifters. There are no hard and fast rules concerning the shifter’s position on the handlebars. It all comes down to your personal preference.
Traditionalists prefer a slightly lower shifter hood placement, reminiscent of the older style of brake lever. The recent trend is to have the shifters pointed up slightly, maybe in response to the super-low front ends on modern racing bikes. The only thing that matters is that your hands are in a comfortable position and that you can easily brake and shift while holding both the hoods and the drops of the bars
SRAM X01 11 Speed Shifter, Trigger Rear Derailleur, Pulley Kit
Installing Cable and Housing.
Derailleur housing is stiffer than brake housing and usually a smaller diameter. The stiffer housing provides quicker, more precise derailleur actuation but means more drag in the system when the housing is bent at an extreme angle. For this reason, derailleur housing is often a smaller diameter than brake housing. Shimano and SRAM derailleur housings typically have a 4-millimeter diameter, and Campagnolo’s has a 4.5-millimeter profile. Derailleur cables are also a smaller diameter than brake cables, but all of the major manufacturers use the same size cable. However, the head of Campagnolo’s cable is slightly smaller than the cable employed by Shimano and SRAM but is completely compatible with each.
Measure Housing Length
Shifters will usually come with precut housing, but these housings are quite long so that they can be used on multiple bike sizes. Place one end of the shifter housing into the shifter, hold it in place, and see how the cable will fit into the cable stops on the frame. When you’ve determined the proper length, mark how much to cut off, either with a marker or by making a divot with your fingernail. For Campagnolo’s, SRAM’s, and Shimano’s newer handlebar-routed shifters, it’s best that the cable housing crosses a bit in front of the head tube. For Shimano’s nonhandlebar-routed shifters, the cable housing should not cross at all.
The rear derailleur housing should be fairly straight as it enters the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur. However, you want the housing to be as short as possible without having a bend at the barrel adjuster—too short and the cable is bent, too long and there’s more drag in the housing.
XX1 Eagle Boost
Finish the Housing Ends
Use a sharp pair of cable cutters, and cut the housing at the marks that you’ve made. Finish the ends by opening them with a dental tool. Both ends of each piece of shifter housing will use cable ferrules.
The SRAM trigger shifters such as the current “X” series (X7, X9, X.O, XX and XX1) use a plastic or carbon fiber cover over the cable access hole. It may be difficult or impossible to remove the cable access cover with the shifter in place on the handlebars. These shifter models may be unbolted from clamps or from the brake lever mounts. When necessary, remove the shifter from the bracket to get the cover off and install a new cable.
Inspect the shifter for the type of cover. Some models (X9, X7) use a rubber cover over the cable end. Lift up the end of the cover to expose the cable end (figure 9.16). Feed out and in through this hole. Replace the rubber cover and reinstall the shifter to the handlebar mount.
For SRAM trigger shifters using a carbon fiber or plastic plate, again, remove the lever from the handlebar. Inspect for a fastener in the middle of the cover. Remove the nut counter-clockwise relative to the plate. Depending upon the model, use either your fingers or a T10 Torx® wrench to loosen and remove the cover plate screw or nut.
The cable end carrier is under shifter return spring or plate. Use a smalltipped screwdriver or seal pick to carefully lift cable end while pushing on cable. Installation of the cable is the reverse process. It can help to slightly bend the end of the cable to help feed it through cable carrier. Removing the barrel adjuster provides a large hole for cable to pass. Pull cable into place and check that the spring was not displaced. Reinstall barrel adjuster and reinstall cover plate.
Twist grip shifters mount to flat or upright handlebars. The twist grip body can be rotated around the handlebars. Twist grip shifters mount to the handlebar between the brake levers and a bar grips. Check that shifters do not interfere with brake levers when brake levers are squeezed with maximum force.
Should problems arise, be prepared by carrying a few tools. When selecting tools for the ride, consider the type of bike components being used by you and others in your group. Consider the weight of the tools and the amount of space available for carrying. Your budget and level of mechanical skill will also affect your choice of tools. There are numerous possibilities for tool options and prepackaged tools kits. One versatile tool choice is the “multitool.”
These contain several tools, including hex wrenches, screwdrivers, spoke wrenches, tire levers, and others in one unit. This type of tool is compact and cost-effective. You may assemble your own take-along kit of tools. The list below outlines recommended tools for a typical MTB or road ride.
Repairs made during the ride have some limitations. The right tools or parts are not always available. Some bikes can simply be flipped upside down to work on them, but be careful to not damage shift and brake levers or housing. Additionally, some hydraulic brake systems should not be turned upside down. If it is necessary to turn a hydraulic brake system upside down, allow it to sit upright several minutes after the repair, then test the brake to insure no air has entered the brake lines.
If a repair seems questionable, walk the bike home or call for a lift. Do not ride an unsafe bike.